This is how to set the XT500 ignition correctly
Important - check the basic condition of the individual parts before setting the ignition. The ignition can be set optimally only with components that work perfectly.
A. Check the ignition adjuster:
Using a stroboscope lamp, the pole wheel flashes at idle and pay attention to quiet running and quiet display. For example, The springs of the centrifugal governor are unloaded, a shaky stroboscope image is shown at idle (in the extreme case, it jumps back from F to T when idling).
Next, check the felt plate on the contact plate. It must be greased - if not, the cam can wear off. A setting is no longer possible when the cam is worn, since the opening times of the contacts are no longer correct.
For both faults, the ignition timing adjuster (centrifugal controller) should be replaced, repair is not possible.
B. Check capacitor:
Due to the very low capacity, the XT ignition capacitor can only be measured with a special capacitance meter (0.22mF +/- 10%). A multi-tester can only be tested for continuity. If this is the case, the capacitor is broken. However, an optical test is possible: the ignition spark on the removed spark plug must be significantly weaker when the condenser is removed than with the condenser connected.
C. Check contacts:
Check the contacts for pimples and crumbs. The contacts can be reworked with fine sanding paper. For a new price of less than € 10.00 this work is only worthwhile.
Now the first actual ignition setting process can take place - the static setting:
First, make sure that the screws on the contact plate are tightened. Turn the motor until the contacts are fully open. Set the contact distance to 0.35-0.45 mm using a feeler gauge. The contacts are screwed to the contact plate via long holes. Loosen a screw (if necessary, both screws if they are very tightly screwed), which holds the contacts. Do not loosen too much screw to ensure easy adjustment. The adjustment is made by twisting the contacts on the base plate (using a screwdriver in the small grooves). Now tighten the screws and only then check the setting.
Static ignition timing:
Here are two different methods, both have their convinced followers and opponents. Our tip - try both and decide for yourself.
Staniol paper, cigarette paper or a sheet gauge with the thickness 0.03mm between the contacts. Carefully pull the paper / blade gauge, turn the engine through (turn the SW 19mm to the motorcycle, unscrew the spark plug), the paper / blade gauge should just slip out of the contacts when the F-mark on the polar wheel is reached.
Incorporate a test lamp or light bulb between the positive pole of the battery and the leaf spring of the moving contact. When the contacts are closed, the lamp lights up. Turn the rotor in direction F; If it is on F, the lamp must go out straight.
Caution: It is only rarely possible to reach an optimal ignition setting with the static setting.
Therefore the static adjustment should be done with a stroboscope lamp (lightning gun). The stroboscope lamp should be designed for 6V or a high-quality 12V version. In addition, there are also vehicle-powered light flashing guns.
Connect the power supply and the induction receiver according to the manufacturer description. Start the engine (should not be a problem after a good static setting) and flash off the rotor / advance.
Adjustment starts: 2250 +/- 150 rpm
Adjustment finished: 3000 +/- 200 rpm
Adjustment range: 20 ° +/- 3 °
Early ignition: 27 ° +/- 3 °
Checking the ignition coil:
Primary coil: 0.75 Ohm
Secondary coil: 5.7 kOhm


This is how to properly control the SR500 ignition
The first step is to check the individual components:
Wiring harness, kill switch, ignition lock, alternator, ignition plug, coil, cable. Often the control of the kill switch is overlooked. This sometimes produces a leakage current (permanently or briefly) and thus destroys the LiMa. The check is often not possible with a standard multi-tester. Check the ignition spark on the spark plug. Then, remove the kill switch and check again. If the optically visible spark is improved, your kill switch system is defective.
A review of C.D. unnecessary. It is rarely the originator of ignition problems. The most common defect is, in our experience, a defective alternator in addition to old / broken spark plugs.
Why does this light machine (LiMa) fault occur relatively frequently?
The coils in the alternator are very sensitive to leakage current, short circuit and lack of contact. The winding wire used must be very thin in order to achieve the required high Ohm values ​​in a small space. Therefore, the coils are very prone to overload. This is due to the construction and can be improved only by the best repair.
Checking the Ohm values:
Disconnect the six-pin connector on the alternator wiring harness. With an Ohm-Meter the u.a. Measure the cable at the connector. Reference temperatures are 20 ° C.
Ignition current coil (low speed): 329 Ohm (brown - black)
Ignition current coil (high speed): 334 Ohm (red - black)
Ignition pulse coil (low speed): 87 Ohm (white - green / black)
Ignition pulse coil (high speed): 16 Ohm (white - red / black)
The most frequent source of error is the 330 Ohm coil. Values ​​below 300 Ohm indicate a significant damage to the coil. Re-winding the defective coil is then necessary. Depending on the condition of the machine (compression, oil consumption, carburettor setting, air filter etc.), a 330 Ohm coil with 300-320 Ohm can also lead to starting difficulties.
Frequently, a heat short-circuit or short-circuit current occurs, that is, The machine starts up well in the cold condition, there are starting problems in warming. If the machine cools, it starts again better. The heating results in a measure, frequently caused by impurities (oil, moisture, etc.), which become heated, become fluid, and then penetrate through the insulating layer of the LiMa.
Caution - the SR alternator can be easily damaged or destroyed by improper handling such as:
Remove the spark plug connector while the engine is running
Kicking without connected spark plug
Too much ignition / hot engine. Check with the stroboscope lamp (after every assembly)
It is important to check the ignition timing.
SR500 -'83
Long holes make adjustment of the LIMA possible (check with stroboscope lamp, F-marking has to be aligned with housing markings at idle, starting from 1950 rpm the F-marking has to move in the direction of the early.) This is the only relevant check 6000 rpm is not necessary for ignition adjustment.
SR500 '84 -
No adjustment possible, since no holes are available.
The use of different LiMa motorcycle combinations can lead to various malfunctions of the ignition system. There are three different types of SR-LiMa, recognizable at the position of the 330Ohm coil (largest coil, conspicuous!).
10:00 am ('78 -'79)
01:00 (-'83)
06:00 ('84 - [better 330 Ohm coil])
To the different LiMa, of course, always other poles were delivered.
There are three malfunctions in the wrong pairing of Polrad and LiMa:
No spark exists
No early adjustment; At low speeds (from 1950 rpm); You notice when driving in the city
Only 20 ° advance adjustment - almost not noticeable in normal driving operation; Here, unfortunately, only one can help - turn the motor up to 6000U / min and flash off, if 34 ° advance adjustment is reached.
If you are not sure whether the motorcycle / LiMa is correctly combined, you should test it for the three described errors, otherwise the LiMa will be overloaded during normal driving.
For the sake of completeness, it is also possible to check the ignition coil. This is shed and therefore rarely a source of error in the electrical system:
Primary coil (orange - ground strap): 0.98 Ohm
Secondary coil (end of ignition cable - ground clamp): 12 kOhm (12000 Ohm)
The length of the spark can also be measured, e.g. With an ignition spark tester. At 500 rpm (strong kick), the spark should span a distance of 6mm. Do not do this inspection outside, but in the closed, windy garage.